Disclaimer: I received a copy of this book for review from the publisher and TLC Book Tours. As always, all opinions expressed are my own.
This book is WILD. From GMac’s unconventional upbringing to his complete bravery in tackling the hugest waves on earth… all of it is very unique! This guy is nuts in the very best way.
My husband was stoked when he saw what book I was reading, he has seen GMac surf at Mavericks on multiple occasions.
Surf culture is not something I grew up around, but something that has always really intrigued and excited me. When we lived in San Diego for two years husby bartered a TV for a surfboard for me! It was my ticket into the ocean, I like to say. But I COULD NOT get the hang of it. I can wakeboard, I can kind of snowboard, but surfing I could never get down.
Through this book, one can really imagine how terrifying and exhilarating these gigantic waves GMac pursues are. It is… beyond incredible.
I can’t say that this book really gripped, held, and sustained my attention, but there were moments throughout that I definitely got lost in the thrill of the story.
The book made me miss Ocean exploration… The Oregon Coast is freaking incredible, but so bone chilling it is impossible to hang around in for long without a head to toe wetsuit, which I do not have. Even then, only crazies are out there… But I do feel like the ocean really is the best metaphor for the human experience in so many ways, and the story definitely gives you an up close and personal view of GMacs amazing, adventurous life.